Now that he is becoming more comfortable with his new way of going he’s allowed to increase work and add in poles to encourage his hind leg movement and build up those all-important bottom muscles! Check in with us again in the next blog where I will explain what sort of pole work exercises we use.
]]>Pole work can do a number of things for your horse, the reasons why I am using them is to build up core strength and stability, to improve his suppleness and top line and to encourage him to use his quarters and step under with his hind legs. They can also help with pace, with a horse that rushes, pole work can be a great way to help set them up and make them think about their feet, making their stride length and rhythm more consistent. Because pole work requires more precision it is great for balance, steering and control. You can also use them for both lengthening and collection, by either widening or shortening the pole distance
My 5 go to pole exercises:
#1 This is the most simple one that I am sure most of you will have done, and that’s trot poles in a straight line. I will simply get Bumble to trot down these a few times each way until he gets into a nice consistent rhythm. I will then add one of my cavalettis or pottys under alternate sides to raise the pole and repeat, this just encourages even more flexion in the hind leg. I will then do the same to the other side and repeat. Next to make a little trickier I will raise some poles higher than others, at this point some horses are so used to doing them they can do it without even trying this just makes them have to think and concentrate a little more and is really good for that bum!
#2 This is the same set up as above but set out on a fan/curve shape. To get a good curve you can use one corner of the school. On this fan you can again raise ends or all of the poles depending on your horse’s level, they will find this one harder. Try to keep the horse stepping over the middle of each pole and no falling in or out, do this properly and it will really help supple your horse. If you horse is confident and balanced through the curve you can step it up and started taking the inside line for collection and the outside for lengthening.
#3 This is the maze, its poles laid out to make channels and right angles, 6 poles laid out in two connecting C shapes. It’s so your horse has to walk between poles, turn on himself to come back through. This exercise is great for core stability and encourages your horse to step up and across with their hind leg as they make the turn. Some horses, like bumble will find this really difficult so it’s best to start on the ground and give guidance, eventually you want your horse to walk through the maze unaided in a good even rhythm, making the turns easily.
#4 The nest, the nest is basically lots of poles laid at all angles some wide some narrow in a bi nest shape, you then can walk your horse to this at angle or direction. The idea of this is to really get the horse thinking about where they’re putting their feet, it engages the brain, but also has great results for the core and their balance. To make this a little harder, some poles can be raised, but only do this if your horse is confident with the simple nest.
#5 Bounces, I count bounces as pole work, and I love them! There is nothing better to really get your horse to sit and use their behind. It teaches your horse to be sharp with their shoulders, to snap up with their front feet but they also the need to propel with their behind to make the next bounce. These can be ridden either on a straight line or for a horse that’s more mature or balanced they can be ridden on a curve. Not only are they a great gymnastics exercise they are useful for rhythm and pace too, a horse will learn not to rush down them or they will really struggle.
Remember although poles look really simple some horses can find them difficult, only ask your horse to do what he/she is capable off, pushing or rushing the horse can make them lose confidence in pole work.
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#1 My first one, which I have learnt from having youngsters is not having a solid groundwork foundation. I would never expect to my youngster or a horse that had never lunged before to go straight out on to a nice circle away from me and know exactly what I wanted of them. Before getting to this stage I would have taught walk cues in hand with me next to them with a lunge whip or my preferred bamboo in the opposite hand, if really needed I could give them a little tap. I would then make sure they know to stay level with me or just that one step behind , I don’t want them to be ahead of me as from that position I wouldn’t have control over speed. Lots of little halts and rein back will help with this. The whip/bamboo can be used in front of the horse to help ask for these. I would then sometimes teach trot in hand so that they learn the voice cues. This not only helps to teach them gaits and manners but it also helps to build their bond with you and gives them a confident start in their work.
#2 This point closely follows number one, and it’s my pet hate, not moving with the horse. When I lunge I never stand in the middle of the arena and let my horse go round me. Horses are herd animals and are used to having a leader, and they feel more comfortable in having us as their leader. As I previously said I teach the horse to work one step behind me, so using that principle I create my own circle on which I move around guiding the horse on their own. This not helps you to control pace (as you slow so should they and as you speed up they should too) but guiding them on an even circle will help them with their own self balance.
#3 Lunging with a bit. Now I am not saying a bit can’t be used whilst lunging I am saying not to lunge from the bit. If you use your lunge line attached or threaded through your bit you are more often than not creating a false bend. What tends to happen is the horse twists and tilts its head from the pull of the line on the bit rather than turning the whole head in flexion. It’s worth investing in a good leather cavesson, the ones with the fixed bar nose band are best. This then has a clip from the centre of the nose which then encourages the whole head to flex. A simple way to try this out is to hold your chin and pull it to the side, you will find you are inclined to tilt your head, now take hold of your nose and do the same, and you will find your head will turn and you will tilt a lot less. The cavesson can be placed over a headpiece with a bit should you wish to use any gadgets.
Finally a note to add, try to be conscious of stopping at the right time. By continuing to work the horse for too long you’re pushing the horse beyond its limit. The muscles become tired the work becomes sloppy and incorrect and the horse also remembers lunging as tiring and boring. But also, when lunging is cut short the horse hasn’t reached the relaxation or focus it needs to start moving correctly. The endorphin flow released by the forward-downward position hasn’t had chance to start and so the horse misses out on those “feel good” hormones that make lunging relaxing, pleasant and beneficial. The saying I stick to is ‘try to finish on a good note’, especially for a youngster, even if that good note comes only after 10 minutes finish there and then the next time ask for a bit more and increase the work and length of good work from there.
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When it comes to rugs and whether or not to rug in winter, there are a lot of factors to take into consideration. Horses are much better at conserving and regulating body heat in the cold than we are, when the coat has been left to grow, it traps a layer of heat close to the body, creating an insulating effect. Providing that horse is well and has good access to shelter, they are probably best left un-rugged. However if you take clipping and elderly horses in to consideration, a rug may be necessary. Old and poor doing horses find it harder to regulate their body temperatures as they don’t move around as much and will forage less, they will benefit from rugs to help assist with them keeping warm in the winter months. If you want to ride regularly during the winter, you may find your horse needs to be clipped, and what clip depends on the work load. A fully clipped horse will need a rug weight that would mimic that hair insulation a horse that is unclipped has. A horse with a blanket or trace type clip will need less rugging, a horse with hair on its back will be warmer than one without. So if you do decide to rug, make sure you use rugs that fit your horse, ill-fitting rugs cause rugs and sores. Make sure you have correct strap lengths to avoid accidents or your rugs being torn. Finally use rugs you can trust and last the test of time, nothing is worse than a leaky rug, Try the Mark Todd collection from Equissimo.
Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate
This title appears on my tips for summer blog, and it’s still just as vital in the winter. Some horses prefer not to drink large quantities of ice cold water, or should it be frosty, ice may prevent your horse from getting as much water as it needs. To help try and offer a wet mash that will help keep your horse hydrated. You can even make a warm mash, which is particularly beneficial to an older horse. Don’t forget to check your water regularly, especially in the field, as said above ice can deter a horse from drinking, it may also damage water pipes, so make sure your water troughs are always full/working.
HAY, what’s up?
Now is the time you need to get your hay supply ready. Horses gain heat through digestion, make sure they have access to forage at all times through the colder months. Worried about weight? Try using a slow feeder or small holed haynet. Don’t forget, British winters can be unpredictable, should it snow and your horse has to be in you may find you will be using your hay up much quicker, so always have a little extra on back up.
Keep Moving
Weather and shorter days makes for riding during the winter a lot trickier, or sometimes depressing! Try not to lose motivation, if you can’t fit in a full riding schooling session, a 20 minute lunge will be just fine. During the winter when horses are stabled more its important that they get out and move, a 20 minute spin helps with circulation and can help keep the muscles, tendons and joints supple.
Variety is also key, it stops both you and your horse getting bored. Take advantage of any good weather to get your horse out hacking, not only does it clear the mind but it is so beneficial to ride your horse on a variety of different surfaces, it’s very easy to keep going in the arena as an easy option, so try not to let yourself fall into that trap. One groundwork session should be added into your weekly routine, it is great for getting your horse to work over its back and keep that topline. For extra gymnastics and core engagement added varied pole work to both your non ridden and ridden work to have your horse in best possible shape for the up and coming competition season.
Mud and more Mud!
We equestrians spend the winter months complaining about mud. Mud fever is frustratingly common in wet weather. The infection can stay dormant in skin, becoming active when the skin is compromised, usually from long periods of damp or little cuts and nicks. Although it may be tempting, over-washing of the legs can actually make it worse, try to let the mud dry, either with a good bed, towel drying or drying leg wraps and then brush it off the next day. If you do wash the leg make sure you get it thoroughly dry afterwards and if mud fever is present use a suitable topical cream. The best brush for getting off dry mud has to be the Magic Brush that you can find on the Equissimo website. However this shouldn’t be used on the mud fever scabs as it will irritate them.
Take care of yourself
Don’t forget to look after yourself during the winter, it’s too easy to worry about your horse, is he too warm, too cold, has he got enough to eat, that we end up forgetting about ourselves. Here are a few simple tips that will help keep you comfortable through the winter. Like for our horse we need to invest in a good set of waterproofs, a good pair of waterproof trousers for the yard, some waterproof chaps to ride in and a good coat will stop you getting cold, wet and miserable. The Mark Todd Waterproof Long Jacket from Equissimo is a long and waterproof coat that is ideal for the cold and wet winter months. It is great for extreme temperatures due to its 120g padding on the sleeves and 200g padding on the body. It features taped seams, removable hood, waterproof zips and storm cuffs.
Glove up
Gloves are vital throughout the winter, the not only stop your hands getting cold but will protect them from the elements, there is nothing worse than sore cracked hands. Make sure you have a good hand cream moisturiser too. The best tip is to keep a spare couple of pairs of gloves at the yard as well as home, so should they get wet you can easily dry and rotate them. Then there are thermals, for those extra cold days a good set of thermals will stop you shivering your way through the yard chores. Lastly, don’t forget that winter doesn’t last forever and the spring will come!
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In my 18 years have I have used and tried quite a few different aids, the pessoa, side reins and roller, chambon and the German rope. As time has gone on and I’ve learnt more about the horse and taken more interest in their biomechanics the more I have steered away from gadgets. I am not saying this will work for everyone but I do strongly believe everyone should give it a go. After seeing my horse hate being in a pessoa, trapped and pulled in by all these ropes. She looked as though she was working in an outline, but that’s all it was, a pretty shape made with her head, but no real impulsion or effort or ability to work over her back. I thought there has got to be another way. This is when I discovered Manolo Mendez, this isn’t a plug for him,( you can if you want read more about him yourselves) but I did find his way of working to be very interesting and set about adapting some of his ways to use with my own horses. This came at a perfect time as I was just about to start work with my two young home-breds.
Before lunging even took place I did a lot of groundwork with them, halts, rein back, changing of direction on figure of eights and shoulder in. These would help get them used to commands, working with me, and help to get them supple. I then progressed to lunging, all gadgets were taken away, and all I used was the leather cavesson with a single ring in the middle of the noseband. This way the horse is completely free to move, there is nothing to lean on, brace against or rely on, they have to truly learn how to use themselves and achieve self-balance. Most importantly it can encourage and allow them to stretch all the way through the neck, along the back and to the base of the tail, working correctly and building up that all important top line. Now the tricks to be careful of when starting this sort of work is that the horse doesn’t get used to being on the forehand, once the motion of forward and down has been achieved ( the eye level needs to be between the wither and hip) then you need to start work on energy and impulsion, to help keep the horse pushing from behind and tracking up, incorporate pace changes and different circle sizes as well as using the long side to add variety and to keep the horse moving forward with energy.
Once and only when they are more established in this type of work will I bring in a couple of my favourite aids, these being the German rope and the Theraband for the quarters. The rope (pictured) clips on to the bit, I find it creates a gentle consistent rhythm of pull and release on the mouth created though the movement of the body, this encourages the horse to seek the contact. I find this to be really useful when introducing a youngster to a bit before being ridden, it would also help if you are finding your horse a little resistant about letting the neck forward and down. I will still only put this on for about 15 mins of a 30min session. Giving them 5 mins to warm up and 10 mins to work loosely and cool down at the end. The other item I mentioned was the Theraband, this is like a resistant band that you attach to a roller and it wraps around the hind quarters. This encourages the horse to really think about and use their hind end, and to bring their hind legs up underneath them, creating power from behind. Again I would only use this for about 10/15 mins of a 30 mins session. I think with training horses, variety and balance is key, you don’t want to over-do one thing and do too little of another, mixing it up like this means the horse is always thinking, always having to adapt to these subtle changes which helps develop good all round muscles.
]]>I then follow up his treatments with a muscle-skeletal therapist who specialises in massage to relieve muscle tension and fascial release. These are both so important to run alongside each other, if you are correcting any part of the skeleton then the muscles are going to react and become sore as they are being used in a different way.
Next I have a trainer who understands what we are trying to achieve, he helps me with three aspects, groundwork, ridden and mobilising exercises and stretches. We cannot expect the osteopath to just pop everything back into place and ‘fix’ the horse. We need to go away and use that as a starting block, to build the horse up correctly from there, if we didn’t do this you would most likely end up back to square one. This is where it is great to have trainer you can work with both on and off the horse.
Now there are four more important people that I feel you need as part of your team, three of which I can now say I am happy and confident I have found, and have so far done an amazing job to help me. A dentist is one of them, although to some it may not seem that crucial as you may only see them twice a year, but any small issue in the horse’s mouth can cause heaps of problems. It is especially important that your dentist sees your young horse regularly, I would recommend at least every 3 months, just because their mouth is changing so much. When they lose a baby cap quite often the tooth underneath is sharp, this is something you need to have treated before a bit goes in it’s mouth.
I have also learnt the importance of having a great farrier, farriery isn’t just about trimming a foot or putting shoes on, the saying no foot no horse is really very true. Now bumble has had odd feet since he was born but it wasn’t until my vet took X-rays of his feet did we find out just how unbalanced they were, my farrier has now been working closely with both the vet and my osteopath to help correct his feet, he’s had bespoke shoes that all slightly differ on each foot but should in time begin to correct him.
This leads me on to talk about your vet, a vet is someone that no one else could replace, they have years of training and experience and they really are someone you need to trust and be confident in. You really are putting your horse in someone else’s hands, and if you not happy doing that with the vet you have now, then it may be time for a rethink.
Finally, what will be the last piece to my jigsaw puzzle, a good saddle fitter, Bumbles current saddle doesn’t fit him, I think from making so many changes to his body, he’s using it and building up muscle in a different way. So for now I have gone back to my trusty Wintec which has been checked and I know fits him, and when we are ready I will be on the hunt for a new saddle!
From this I want you to ask yourself just a few questions, who do I have on my team? Do I have everyone I need? And most importantly, do they work together, are they willing to work alongside each other? Communication and team effort really does go a long way to the whole horse approach.
Ally x
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Without boring you with all the details, we went in for a back X-ray to check there were no signs of kissing spine, and thankfully, as I have put a lot of groundwork in to getting him to use his back, he was clear with a lovely open spine. Next the vet watched him on the lunge, and true to form he went disunited within half a circle. This led us to check for PSD, something I have been dreading and trying hard to prevent. A few nerve blocks later and we were ready to lunge, and there was no change, he still went disunited. Although I was over the moon it meant we still were left with more investigations. I mentioned that I had been unhappy with his feet, something I had been trying to get on top of, from birth he has always had unsymmetrical front feet with one being higher in the heel than the other, which I thought was being managed with regular trims. She asked if I wanted X-rays and I agreed. Well the x-rays showed a lot more unbalance than both myself and the vet thought there would be, when they were on screen, side by side, you could so clearly see how out of whack they were, and not just the fronts but the hinds too. Fast forward and he has now got bespoke shoes on all four feet, the huge positive is on the follow up examination he could canter without going disunited! The negatives are that it’s been a huge shock to his system and his body is struggling, he’s got bad locking stifle, he’s tetchy and sore and just not quite his usual self, and a dip in is lumbar/sacroiliac has presented itself which is of huge concern to my osteopathic vet. He’s advised to not ride for the next few weeks and to take it slowly, and if he doesn’t improve we need to do more investigations.
Now you have a bit of back ground information I can move on to the reason I am writing this post, how I am dealing with this set back. I found the each week brought a different emotion. For the first week, I was angry, really angry. Previous to this I had had a run of bad luck with my horses; I ended up having to retire my mare just as we had completed our first year competitions. I was then given a gorgeous dressage horse on loan, he had had a previous injury but had been sound for a few years out in the field, we had just started competing when he his ringbone (an incurable arthritis) made an ugly comeback and it was advised he was put down. Then this with Bumble, waiting 6 years, 6 years of carefully producing him ready for our first year of competition, and it felt like that was all being snatched away from me again. I was angry at the world, why couldn’t it just give me the break I so desperately wanted.
Week two I will be honest, I really struggled, and I did feel really depressed. I started comparing myself to my friends and people I followed on social media, I had such huge self-pity, they all had lovely horses that they were out having fun on and I wasn’t. I can tell you now, social media is a cruel place to be when you are feeling like this. Towards the end of this week, as I was sadly scrolling through my Instagram feed, a little quote piped up.
‘You’re not behind in life, there’s no time table we must follow. It’s made up. What’s early? What’s late? Don’t beat yourself up for where you are. Everyone has their own time, stop comparing. It’s your schedule and everything is right on time.’
This led me on to week 3, where we are now, and its acceptance. Amongst all the worry and anger I had lost what was and is most important thing, and that’s having a happy healthy horse. As long as I know I am trying my hardest to achieve this and know I am doing my best then I need to stop beating myself up and comparing myself to others. I need to treat where we are now as a blank canvas, although I had done lots of ground work, gymnastics, pole work and hill work to create variety in his work and build all the muscles up slowly and carefully, his feet all this time may have been holding him back. Although right now it seems like a huge step back and such a negative experience, maybe, just maybe, it’s going to spring us right forward, I’ve just got to give it time. He’s my first homebred, a horse that will be with me for life, a horse that I want to give a long happy life, with future soundness being my biggest priority. I’ve never wanted to be competing him as a 4 or 5 years old, for him to then breakdown when he’s 10. I need to remind myself I’m not on the same journey as others are, I’m in it for the long run.
So I hope for anyone who is going through something similar, they can take away just these few things. It’s ok to feel all the emotions that I have just gone through, it’s natural, don’t beat yourself up. Don’t compare yourself to others; take a break from social media, although at the time you want to wallow in self-pity, it will only make you feel worse. Just remind yourself why you are in this, make sure you are doing it for the right reasons and there is no time limit, it’s made up!
Finally talk! Mental health is so important, no one can understand how you feel unless you tell them, and with things like this it’s so nice to have a little support!
]]>Throughout the summer providing your horse with clean water is key, on average your horse needs to drink 5- 10 gallons of water a day. In hot weather and after heavy exercise horses are more likely lose a lot more electrolytes when they sweat. You can add electrolytes to water, but be sure to provide a bucket of fresh water without, so that they have an option of both. A mineral or salt lick can also be provided to help replace what has been lost. If you are worried your horse is being fussy and isn’t getting enough hydration try something like soaked speedi-beet to get that little bit more liquid in.
Cool Off
How to keep your horse cool after exercise, after a ride a horse may be sweaty or breathing heavily. Take time (5-10 mins) to walk your horse off on a long rein until his/her breathing is returning to normal. Wash you horse off, not only will this help to cool your horse down but it will also remove sweat which can dry out your horses coat and create sores, such as in the girth area or behind the ears. If using cold water straight from the tap, always hose or wash the legs first as this will cool the whole body. Spraying a large muscle with water can cause it to contract quickly and this could make them sore. Remember always scrape the water off immediately, a high body temperature will heat the water quickly and will cause overheating.
It may be worth investing in a few cooling products if you plan to compete during the summer.
The Equi-N-Ice Rapid Cooler Rug. Designed as an alternative to conventional sweat rugs, once it's been treated with equi-n-ice coolant it will drop the horse's core body temperature as quickly and safely as possible. Ideal after competition or exercise, when travelling or simply on hot days, it draws heat away from the muscles by rapid evaporation and has been scientifically proven to reduce the horse's temperature after exercise by 7 degree C in ten minutes.
NEW Equine GelCel Pad. The GelCel Pads are a unique, easy and cost effective way to cool your horse’s legs without using messy gels, ice or sprays. These boots are very easy and convenient to use. They activate quickly when soaked in water and provide an instant cooling action.
Throwing Shades
If you horse is out 24/7 make sure it always has access to shade/shelter, whether this is natural or man-made. Our British summer time means we can very easily vary from rain to sunshine, so they will need protection from both. If this is not an option make sure you have somewhere to bring them in to get out of the heat, or you have a waterproof lightweight rug ready to hand.
Bugs Life
Fly rugs and hoods provide great protection for those horrible horse flies and midges, it is definitely worth investing in a well-made fly rug. Make sure won’t rub and has UV protection which will help reflect the rays and help horses with pink or sensitive skin such as the Mark Todd Fly Ultra Combo Rug.
Try a horse fly trap, I have 4 at my livery yard and although they only went up half way through the summer a good 200 flies were caught! If you’re a bit sceptical, there are plenty of videos on YouTube of how to make your own.
Last year I discovered a little trick to help protect my horse from the flies when out hacking. I took an old fly rug, cut a large hole out where the saddle would go and removed the belly straps and buckles and then rode in it, and I can tell you it did make a difference.
Ice Ice Baby
A little cool down treat, get yourself an old ice-cream tub or large yogurt pot , chop up some carrots and apples, pop them into the tub and top with water or apple juice, then freeze. This ice pop can be fed from a feed tub or for a bit more fun, add some rope and hang in the stable as a toy.
Lather up
Avoiding sunburn, Horses, particularly white horses can get sun burnt. Areas such as white socks, blazes, hairless patches and pink noses are all vulnerable to sunburn. Apply sun cream to these places – carrying out a patch test first or shield muzzles with a UV fly hood.
Get yourself a good fly wound cream, flies spread infection and can delay healing in the wound. I have the Battles summer fly cream that’s bright yellow, it’s great for helping to heal the wound as well as keep the flies off!
Summer is the perfect time to give your horse a good scrub and clean up without them getting cold, but you also need to be kind to their skin! A product I have just come across is the Cowboy Magic Rosewater Shampoo. This shampoo contains a conditioner that attacks residue build-up from minerals and chemicals while deep conditioning the hair and skin giving a long lasting shine and UV protection too.
On your travels
Travel sensibly, during travel horses can expend a lot of energy just through balance and that’s without the heat of a confined space. Unless you have fans or air con to keep your horse cool, try to travel in the cooler parts of the day. High temperatures or too much waiting in traffic can quickly cause your horse to overheat and become dehydrated.
Time to ride
If you have to ride when it’s hot, try to lighten the work load, or shorten the ride and aim for quality instead of quantity. If you can, ride in the early morning or later in the evening when its cooler, and make sure you cool them down properly after each ride. The ground can very quickly turn hard in the summer so limit long or intense periods of training on grass or reduce your warm up if possible.
Of course leg protection is a must when competing, try to opt for a boot that will protect but also allow your horse’s legs to breathe such as the Kentucky Horsewear Air Tendon Boots or the New Equine X Country Airflow Boot.
Me time
Of course don’t forget to protect yourself, make sure apply plenty of sunscreen when you are out and about on the yard. Try wearing a cap such as the Kentucky Baseball Cap, it will help shield your face from the sun as well as stopping your scalp getting burnt.
A number of companies are now producing riding leggings, they are much lighter weight and cooler for the summer months but can also be bought with grips for the knees and seat. I have them myself and wouldn’t go back to wearing a breech in the summer! A firm favourite would be the Montar Alexa Riding Tights.
*All of the products mentioned in bold can be found on the Equissimo website.*
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